NZ West Coast 09

Definately a trip to remember for many reasons. Good rivers, good beer, but above all, great company.

Norway August 08

Chris at the put in to the Driva.
My Norwegian paddling virginity has finally been broken, for the last five summers I had been working in the US and had not realised what I had been missing. I joined up with 'Lord' Chris Wheeler, Andy 'McDoom' McMahon, Fran 'The Fearless' and 'Little' Robin and together we became Team Thames Valley. Chris has been to Norway on numerous occasions and had a tick list for all the classics, he knew exactly where every river and it's gauge was and sometimes I felt he was more excited to read the levels than actually go paddling.

Fran: Mrykdaselvi, 1st drop of triple falls.

Chris: 3rd drop of triple falls.
Only having two weeks to kayak, we managed to squeeze as much paddling in as possible ticking off the Randaselvi (play and train station), Mrykdaselvi, Visda, Skjoli, Lwr Skerva, Lwr Finna, Grovu, Lwr Driva, Lwr Rauma, Lagen Canyon and a 12 minute Amotz (Sjoa) Canyon. (I apologise for the current spolling, I will correct later when I get a map).

Andy: Lower Skirva
The highlight of the trip had to be the Skjoli which provided a non stop roller coaster ride from top to bottom. Tagging onto a German group for a short section provided an overdose of adrenaline as we blindly entered a section of ledge drops, each containing huge holes. I do not think that we actually followed their line that closely as Chris nearly became intimate with the river.

Andy: Mrykdaselvi
After reading the horror stories in the Guide Book about the Lower Rauma (broken nose, broken ribs, broken back), we were close to walking away to go wash our hair. But after an inspection of the 1st few drops they looked 'good to go'. At the put in a very enthusiastic Tom, Colin and Dom joined us to make a group of six and this helped with regards to now having enough numbers if anything was to go wrong. Once everyone was through the 1st drop and no one had broke their nose as recommended by the guide book, confidence was high that this was going to be a successful mission. On the fourth drop, Chris decided that running these intense drops was too easy, so tried to pull off a barrel roll mid drop but ended up running it upside down escaping with a few holes in his spray deck and bashed fingers. This led to the comment of the trip when Tom looked at Chris after and said "S**t, s**t!! What happened to your nose?" Chris replied, "nothing, it has always been like that."

 

Probe Andy: 1st Drop Lwr Rauma

Andy: 2nd drop Lwr Rauma

We struggled to work out what the six drops as per the guide book were on the lower Rauma as we came across ten, so I have labeled the photos according the order that they came in.

Chris: 3rd drop Lwr Rauma
Andy: 9th drop Lwr Rauma
At the take out to the Randeselvi Train Station section, our final run, I was throwing my rope out to get it dried. Whilst I was recoiling the rope and putting a little twist in it to get perfect loops, Chris came over to see what I was doing. After explaining why and how to do the little twist Chris exclaimed "I was just interested because I have always been fed up when I throw the cord of the lawnmower out, it always get tangled."


Chris: Main event on Lagen Canyon

For all the photos visit:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=49159&l=4ac3c&id=608562679
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=49161&l=a4b67&id=608562679

Nepal Dec 07

So after the month in India, the team split and went their separate ways. Shalabh, Sam and Zak met up with Andy, Mikey and Alan to explore Aranchal Pradesh while myself and JJ met up with Stanley Pritchard and Slug Colin Aitken. We became known as "Team Bomb" or "Top Lip Slugs". We started our trip by going to the Peak UK challenge and paddling some of the upper gorges of the Bhote Kosi. If the quality of paddling on the Bhote was to go by, this trip was going to be fun!

Stan on the Bhote Kosi

There was never a dull moment in Nepal especially when riding on the roof of the bus. You never knew who you were going to meet or who was going to sit on your lap.

Colin and Stan joined by a local warrior who sat on Stan's lap.

We than made a trip to the Tamba Kosi and on our first night in a tea house, the owner offered us her three daughters to marry which made for an amuzing but slightly uncomfortable evening. The next day in true team style, we bombed the river and made it back towards the Bhote Kosi that night. However, we did end up sleeping on the roof of the bus that night on the top of a pass in sub zero conditions where Colin discovered that his bivi was a load of rubbish. Stanley had to fly home, while we journeyed to Pokhara. Here we were to take on the Modi Khola, Marsyandi and the Kali Gandaki. Colin had ventured far up these rivers on a previous Slugs World Tour so had the itinery well planned.

JJ at the end of the Modi Khola with the sacred Machapuchare in the background.

We started on the Modi Khola and had a day and a half hike in up to Tata Pani. The sherpas we had were fantastic, totally putting us to shame by carrying our kayaks while only wearing flip flops. We also discoverd the village children to be tough when they sang to us as we walked by only then to demand money. While JJ and Colin escaped through first group, on our refusal to give them money, I was body checked by a 3 ft eight year old while his sister clung to my paddle. It seemed to us that this was a very rehersed act that was turning into a mockery through not too smart Westerners giving into their demands. However, the river was great despite the limbo gates at the start created by bamboo bridges.

Colin in the thick of the action on the Marsyandi

The Marsyandi was described to us as a jem. We were aslo told that there would be yet another hike in. While journeying from Pokhara we got stuck in a protest. Villagers had blocked the only road out as they were unhappy with the pay off given to a family that had just had their son killed by a truck. So in Nepali style they chopped down a tree across the road, made a wall across it with rocks and then made the village women sit across the road. We spent many an hour amuzed at how the police (who are completely peaceful) talk to the villagers and discuss negotiations. Sometimes it went bad, so more rocks were thrown on the road and when it got better the women stood up.

Eventually we made it to the river where we found that the road took us almost to the top of where we wanted to be, so no hike in. The only downside to this road construction is that it just means that another dam project is proposed further up the river on top of the dam that is near completion. In a few years I can see the Marsyandi being lost. In true team bomb style, the next day we paddled the river in 4 hours.

Construction up the Marsyandi valley.

JJ lining up a big hole to punch on the Modi Khola.

Time was running out for Colin so the last river we ran with him was the Kali Gandaki. Once again we found that the road had now been built way up the valley so there was no need to hike in. It took under a day of travel, giving us a chance to relax in the evening. The next day we managed to paddle all of the upper and made it back to Pokhara that evening. Colin had to get into India while JJ and I rested for a few days watching a lot of Guru's TV (what I mean by this is that we sat in Guru's restaurant while watching the paragliders and the world go slowly by).

JJ and I took on the Marysyandi again to the dam and this time we managed to paddle it in 2 hours. We took out as close as we could to the dam while being chased by a very worried security guard. We were unlucky and made to hike out over the bridge and up the steep right bank. Others had told us that you can just walk around the dam and put back in. Also Babu a local guy has paddled through the tube (not recommended!).

Denied right of passage at the dam on Marsyandi. Sold to the highest bidder.

Very cheap Christmas gift shopping in Kathmandu was our final activity in Nepal. Nepal is definately amazing and is a destination to return to in the future.

More pictures can be viewed at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevebates/collections/72157603531146249/

India: Uttaranchal River Notes

Uttaranchal River Notes: Oct/Dec 07

At this time of year, the water levels were low so please take this into consideration with regards to grading. In higher water seasons, these sections would most probably be unrunable. The team were competent grade 4/5 boaters with a vast experience of river running.

Yamuna ≈16km
Put in: Janki Chati (above this is continuous boulder garden which needed more water)
Take Out: Syana Chatti
Grade: 4/5 (3 Portages)
Duration: 1 ½ days (road support)

Over the bridge at Syana Chatti you have to pay road tax of approx 30 rps and the road heads up away from the river. Eventually you get back to the river and can keep driving along it until you do not think there is enough water to kayak, find an easy access point. The run starts with low water, easy grade 4 pool drop rapids (as long as you know your left from right) and gradually increases with volume as tribs feed in. After some interesting rapids you finally reach a clean 20 ft drop and then the river steepens and becomes a lot more difficult. This final section is the steepest part of the river and is hidden from the road. All rapids in the gorge are run able or easily portaged apart from one, where the river drops off the face of the earth and you have to do a bit of bush bashing and lowering of the kayaks on river right. You can take out river right after the bridge at Syana Chatti to avoid the stink on river left.

Zak Shaw on the Yamuna with Sam Hughes snapping.

Harki Doon Gad (Supin)
Grade: 5
Hmmmnnnn!!!! How do I explain this one?
This is committing. Even though the road looks like it runs along side the river, you are at least a 1 ½ hour + climb out if you are lucky.

Lwr Gorge: Road Bridge below Sankri– just after the confluence of the Obra
Firstly we attempted the lower gorge which joins the Obra Gad to make the Supin. We put on below Sankri and ran 5 grade 4/5 pushy rapids before being confronted by a walled in gorge, narrowing to 6m wide. The entrance rapid looked pushy and then we could see no further eddies in the gorge before the river disappeared. After climbing out on precarious loose rock and roping the boats up, we had made a wise choice as the rapids in the gorge (we believe) would have been heinous.
Shalabh has run this in low water.

JJ Shepherd with Zak Shaw in background.

Middle Section
Grade: 5
We hiked from Sankri towards Taluka with porters along the partly washed out road for ½ day before seeing the river in the distance dropping steeply. So we dropped down to the river at a bridge and camped for the night and sent the porters home. Next day we ran 4 rapids over about 100m and were confronted by another walled in gorge with an innocuous entrance rapid. JJ and I elected to hike out up a steep side stream (took 5 hrs) while Zak, Sam, and Ben “tried” to portage (there was no way of getting back to the river and they hiked out taking 6 hrs).

Rupin. “Mark Rainsley” http://www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk/indiareport.htm
Awesome run!

Bhilangana ≈30km
Put in: Ghuttu
Take Out: Ghansyali
Grade: 4/5 (1 portage) in low water
Duration: 2 days

This run contains continuous white water that will keep you smiling the whole way down. You have the option to scout and portage all rapids but it is mainly read and run. Other notes, do not camp outside the bear cave in case he is in there. There are a couple of small dam projects currently in progress which will probably add to the portages but not totally destroy the class run. The road does run along the entire length of the river, but once again it would be a long climb out.

Shalabh on the Bhilangana

Kali Ganga – Upper Mandakini ≈10km
Put on: Kalimath
Take Out: Okund
Grade 4/5 (with portages)
Duration: 1 day

The run starts with low water, and is steep, tight and technical including a few portages for most mortals. Tribs feed in and the run gradually turns from a creek into a big water run. There are a few mandatory large holes that have to be boofed or punched and they are willing to catch those who are unaware. However, this run will put a huge smile on your face once out of the low volume confines of the Kali Ganga. We put on at Kalimath as it looked too low to go further, I can only imagine what the Madakini would look like in high water. Check out http://playak.com/news.php?idd=85570875626 , as it looks like you need permits ….. or a small bribe.

Dhauli Ganga (trib of Alaknanda above Joshimath)
Put on: Segri
Take out: When it gets flat
Grade: 4/4+ (1 portage)
Duration: 1 day

“KAYAKING IS A CRIME”
Driving up the valley of the Dhauli Ganga it is initially looks grade I or VI due to landslides. Below Segri, we put on to what we initially deemed to be continuous grade 3, however we were wrong. You have to walk down a steep bank to get to the put on which is just below a large flat section formed by what we believe to have been a natural dam. From the go, the run is a continuous read and run (for the brave) IV/IV+ boulder garden with an easy portage or 2 throw in.

It was so much fun we did it twice, however …. the second day we were met by armed Forestry Commission Guards who escorted us to Joshimath where we were put in detention for 22 hrs whilst haggling our release fee. Our options were to pay the fine or go to court and face a maximum 2 months in prison and 1000 rp fine. We escaped 20,000 rp lighter after bringing it down from 35,000 rp. If we were to get caught a 2nd time, the fine was to be doubled. I therefore suggest if you have money, take 5000 rp per person to that area for the 1st run and then a further 10000 rp when you get caught the 2nd time.

Alaknanda
Put on: Chamoli
Take Out: Nandprayag
Grade: 4/5
Duration: ½ day

This is a large volume section that is mainly read and run, with big hole avoidance fun. It ends with a monster rapid that needs serious consideration and contemplation if you plan to run it.

Unfortunately our run was marred by an unpleasant body recovery after stopping for lunch. This section also contains a place called dead mans eddy. Apparently up to 15 bodies have been found floating around in it because many pilgrims drive too fast up the narrow winding valley road rushing to God, in one sense not making it but ironically doing so.

Dhauliganga (East, trib of Kali on Nepali border)
Grade: 5/5+ (2 portages)
Put in: Sobla
Take out: New Sobla or 2 km below (further on is grade 6)
Duration: 1 day

This river provides a solid workout; you will be exhausted by the end so make sure this is not a warm up run. There is continuous action from the start which is intense and humbling, in places a swim would be fatal. The road does run alongside the river so you can climb out if necessary or think it is too much. There are a couple of must make portages so scout the river thoroughly while driving up the valley.

We ran this river twice with only Zak and Ben completing it on the 1st attempt. Cold, Guardia and a swim took out the rest of us. They were greeted to a heroes welcome in New Sobla where most villagers had never seen white faces before let alone kayaks. I took a swim on the 1st run when I ended up in a cave and Zak swam on the 2nd run after a surfing in 2 large holes.

Ben Jackson on the Dhauliganga.

Goriganga (trib of Kali)
Grade 3/4 (5)
Put in: Sheraghat
Take out: when you get tired
Duration: 1 day

You can drive all the way alongside this river and pick and choose where you want to put on. We checked the river as far as the road goes up (Madkot), above Sheraghat and beyond it was flat as far as we could see. The river may get steeper further up the valley but would involve a large mission in getting there and scouting. The section we ran was big volume fun that had long rapids with flat sections in between. Scouting was necessary to avoid big holes.

JJ Shepherd on the Gori Ganga

More photos can be viewed at http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevebates/collections/72157603545062493/

Also trip stories were posted on: www.passion4adventure.blogspot.com

www.jacksonoutdoors.blogspot.com

www.adventuresinpacland.blogspot.com

Local Paper Fame!

After viewing an article asking for photos of yourself holding the Swindon Advertiser in different places around the world, I decided to take the paper on the India trip with me. This is the original photo and was published on the 11th Jan.

The article also had said that they would make it worth my while, however I received a phone call from the paper saying that they would like to come around and interview me. What for? I only sent the picture in as a joke, and I was hoping it would be 'worth while'. Anyway, a journalist and a photographer came around to my house and this was the result.

New Zealand 06 into 07

Arriving in Christchurch the skys were grey which was the best possible start to the trip as Jau Camo and I had planned to stay around the area to celebrate New Year at a friends. This allowed us to warm up on the local rivers such as the Ashley and the Boyle Drop. Jau also had access to canyoneering equipment so we spent a day descending a steep creek in a different fashion. On New Years day we picked up Boydie from the airport (good timing buddy!) and Jau went his separate way, back to work. Murchison was our next destination as we heard that levels on the coast were not too good.

Camo on lap 3 of Mauria Falls.

I take the plunge on the Boyle screaming "Didymo!!!"

After two days of paddling almost all sections of the Buller, Matakitaki and Mauria Falls, we headed over to Hokitika where we found the skys to be grey again. Our first flight was the Upper Wanganui with some challenging rapids to keep us on our toes and dust off the cobwebs. However we found that the levels on the Upper Kakapothai drop very fast and we put our canyoneering skills to good use.

Boydie and Camo negotiate Letter Box.

The rain yet again returned and we met up with more friends and went to check out the Otiri (the river that you can see on the drive over in Hamner pass). We found out that this river is as manky as it looks. We also thought we were all going to die in a landslide at one stage when we heard a massive roar above our heads. It was only a truck dropping off giant boulders on the side of the road for repairs, he did not know we were directly below, we were lucky!

Camo and John Boone unload in the downpoor.

Nine of us met to run the Whitcombe, it was drizzling in town but was an interesting drive to meet the chopper through the pooring rain. Dando had already cancelled the flight but Dan came to our rescue. One group of 4 started higher with myself and the others starting at the regular put on. We put on to beautiful blue water, but the level rose in front of our eyes and soon the water was grey and pumping. At the entrance to the gorge I went back to my boat after scouting, it was now floating. We managed to run all rapids by sneaking the main lines, if we had strayed off line we would have been in trouble. Looking back up river the local boys finally caught us up, they were walking most of the rapids. "Have you run all those rapids?" they asked. We said yes, "we have never seen it this high!". Because no one in our group had done the run before, we just thought that this was the run, be it a bit intense. Eventually the gorge was over and we were all treated to huge wave trains back to the cars. The drive out was more scary than the river when Gareth had to tow the other vehicle out because its electrics had got too wet.

After running lots more classics such as the Styx and the Crooked, the level for the Arahura was still too high. Boydie was desperate to do this run but he had run out of time and flew home. Luckily for us the Arahura came in and Camo and I ran it twice with various friends before leaving.

JJ Shepherd pole vaulting on Dent Falls.

Irish Graham on Dent Falls with JJ protecting the syphon.

Kev England entering Billiards.

More pictures of the trip can be viewed at:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevebates/sets/72157603805704511/

Australia Man Road Trip 06 - 07

November 06 saw me heading to Australia for travel and work. Here I met up with Camo, Ben and Jau (past team members from USA and CA trip) in Perth for a spot of snorkelling, surfing and yet another "ROAD TRIP!!!" So from Perth we drove to Melbourne.

Perth has an amazing coastline, just South of the city (Penguin Island's) you can combine sea kayaking with snorkelling and can even dive through limestone caves. Protected fishing areas show a noticeable increase in fish and sea life. The Aussies just find fish too tasty.

Pier posts do not look like this in the UK!!

I tried my chances in my kayak off this reef break where one wave was enough to give me a beating I wish not to receive ever again. I should have listened to the pre warning from a local surfer who had never seen kayaks at this break before. He asked if we had helmets, we said yes, he said wear two.

The Great Ocean Bite just off the Nullabor. Part of the Nullabor has the longest straight section of road in the world at 146km (I think), this then takes a slight bend into another straight section of 96km + the rest. All there was to see was shrubs and road kill. The highlight of the Nullabor was a giant headless kangaroo sunbathing on his back, legs akimbo showing his giant testicles.

Closer to Melbourne is the Great Ocean Road displaying coastline like this shown above. Soon the surf breaks started appearing, but when we went to the infamous Bell's beach, I had seen bigger ripples on a duck pond.

After spending Christmas at Ben's house, Camo, Jau and I flew to NZ for 3 weeks of boating.

More photos of the trip can be seen at, http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevebates/collections/72157603740484455/